June 18, 2009:

Day 13 of Trek:
Spagmur (4,610 m) over Spagmur La (4,950 m) to Narbus (4,820 m)
After a barking infested night in which I didn't sleep too good, we had breakfast at our
normal time of 7:30 am. We would have a short hiking day today and left at 8:30 am. Right
after camp, we hiked up a ravine towards the pass. After 45 minutes we reached a huge
boulder from where we had great views of the scenery around us. Here we waited for
Lakpa and Kim.
Another hour of relatively slow hiking contouring around a mountain and we were on top of
the Spagmur La at 4,950 m or 16,300 feet. Great weather and great views from up here.
Not only did we have great views towards the valley which we just went up and all the way
back to the Yar La, we could also see the nomadic development of Narbus below us with its
tents and livestocks where we would camp for the night. We could also see the Manali -
Leh Highway a little further away.

We spent a long time on the pass as it was nice and warm and our remaining hike was a
short one. Once our horses came and passed us, we started to go down to Narbus.
We hiked down steeply to the valley and then walked towards a couple of the nomad tents.
Kim had been here before several times and some of the nomads knew her (hey, who
doesn't know Kim???). We were invited into one of the tents and had some delicious salt
butter tea. The nomads here are Tibetans and their tent was pretty clean and organized,
unlike the Ladakhi nomads and their tents which we saw later.
We watched some of the herdsmen shave the wool off the sheep. They were pashima
sheep, known for their wool. We watched them for quite a while doing their work and then
walked to our tents a few hundred yards away from the nomads.
We had lunch. After lunch, quite a few of the nomads came to our tent and visited us. We
gave them cookies and tea. In the afternoon, our jeep from Leh arrived with our re-supply
of food. It was fun to watch our guys spread all of the supplies out over several blankets
and take stock of what they received from the re-supply. It was quite a happening for the
nomads who watched all afternoon.
Even later in the afternoon we could see the sheep herds coming back towards the nomad
tents from their higher pastures. This was quite a sight for us and we walked towards the
nomad tents watching them.
Dinner was spaghetti bolognese with meat!!! Mutton meat that was, but it was really good!!
Probably the best dinner of the trip. Our jeep also brought us a few bottles of beer which
we enjoyed as well. When we went to bed around 9 pm there was the most beautiful starry
sky I had ever seen! Maybe the beer made it even starrier......