June 23, 2009:

Day 18 of Trek:
Lhatoo Gongma (4,670 m) to Kyangdom (Tso Moriri, 4,530 m)
After waking up at 4 am and having to pay for the excessive amounts of tea I consumed the
night before, I continued to sleep until 6:45 am. This of course meant that I was the last one
to get up and now in a hurry to get packed.

We left camp shortly after 8 am. It was another beautiful day weatherwise. It was our third
day in this valley, the last one.
We just kept following the river which now actually became bigger and bigger and at times
covered most of the valley floor. At 10 am, we made our obligatory stop waiting for Kim and
Lakpa and then continued on together.
Another two hours of walking and we stopped for lunch. The valley was slowly ending now.
Another gorgier part and we could see the valley open up in the distance. We started going
up a ridge to our left on a slightly exposed trail. And then, a few minutes later, we got our
first views of Tso Moriri. Up here, I lost my orange hat in a wind gust and it flew down the
mountain. I am sure it now crowns the head of a Lhadaki nomad!
From this first viewpoint we enjoyed the views of the lake and the surrounding mountains.
Our campsite was visible in the distance at the shores of the lake next to a nomad camp.
Going down to our camp did not take too long. When we got there, a group of nomads was
sitting beside our camp having a siesta.
We camped on one side of the river and the nomads were on the other side. Sure enough,
after about thirty minutes or so, some of their dogs came over inspecting us. Did I say that I
didn't like those dogs??? They look ragged and cannot be trusted.
Later in the afternoon, we had some fresh melons. They were goood! The views from our
campsite were surreal. The blue of the lake, the brown and white of the mountains and
then the blue of the sky. It was a gorgeous scene!
Kim and Lakpa were able to buy half a sheep from the nomads. They said that the nomads
told them that the sheep was killed by rockfall....hmmmm....anyway, our dinner containing
mutton was great! We had a beautiful sunset over the lake and the mountains. Went to bed
around 9 pm and the stars were out in full force!