June 24, 2009:

Day 19 of Trek:
Kyangdom (Tso Moriri, 4,530 m) to Korzok Phu (4,640 m)
Today was going to be a loooong day of trekking. After breakfast, we visited the Lhadaki
nomads across the river. We watched them doing their chores, i.e milking goats, shaving
pashima sheep, etc.
We also were allowed to peek into one of their tents. Here we saw that the Tibetan tents are
indeed that much cleaner than the Lhadaki nomad tents. Unlike in a Tibetan tent, nothing in
the Lhadaki tent was organized. Chaos pur, just like a Western Teenager's room.
Kim had brought the family we bought the sheep from cookies and had little gifts for the
children. Graham had a cricket ball which he gave one of the little boys who was very
Around 9 am, we left the nomads and started our hike along the western shore of Tso
Moriri. Across the lake, we could see Lungser Kangri (the southern peak at 6,650 m) and
Chanser Kangri (6,600 m) dominating the mountain range.
Marc and I were constantly behind the others, taking pictures and taking in the views. After
some 3 hours of hiking, we had lunch close to the shore at a beautiful spot. It was getting
real hot. The sun was out in full force.
Shortly after lunch, we had to climb up through some boulders as the mountains came
close to the lake. Here we took some spectacular pictures.
The rest of the hike, while pretty, was tough. All my compadres suffered under the heat. As
I am used to the heat, I did not have any problems and was far ahead of everybody, even
Kirin could not stay with me anymore. Three hours after lunch, I finally reached the bluff
which overlooks the village of Korzok. I was waiting here for everybody.
The views from here were probably the best yet (hard to imagine!). We then walked down
into the village of Korzok. As there is a jeep road going to Korzok there are quite a few
tourists here. Also, lots of tents accomodations for people to stay. From what I heard,
Indians from the hot mainland are the most frequent visitors.
We came into Korzok. The gompa was above us, which we were going to visit the next day.
We sat down at a teahouse. After talking to the owner, Kim and Lakpa came up with the
idea of hitching a ride on his jeep up to Korzok Phu where our campsite was. Marc and I
said we did not want to ride in the jeep as we were on a hiking trip!!! We are purists!
Anyway, Kim, Lakpa and Graham took the jeep and Marc and I continued walking.
Korzok Phu, our destination and where we camped, is a huge nomadic grazing area and
about a 45 minute walk above Korzok. After Marc and I left Korzok, we went along the jeep
road which leads up to Korzok Phu. 20 minutes later, our three lazy guys overtook us with
the jeep waving cheerfully. Marc and I then crossed over onto a trail which went up straight
this beautiful valley to the grazing area.
We got to our campsite at 5:30 pm, only a few minutes after Kim & Co. arrived in the jeep. It
was a really long day and we were tired. We had great pizza for dinner accompanied by a
few beers which Kim had organized from Korzok. After this, in my eyes, best day of the
trip, I went to bed at 9 pm and slept really good.
Kirin & Marc
Lungser Kangri (left) and Chanser Kangri (right)