October 1, 2008:
Back to Jomsom via Kagbeni
Woke up around 6 am and got up around 7 am. There were beautiful views from outside of our room on
the rooftop. Gyan surprised me with fixing my breakfast and brought me oatmeal porridge with apples,
something I have been craving for for a while. We left Chele around 8 am. Within 30 minutes or so we were
already at Chhusang. We continued  at a pretty fast pace. Around Tangbe we met several groups going
into Mustang. We climbed up to the steep ridge past Tangbe which we reached shortly after 10 am.
Up here we rested for a while. The Chilean couple came after a while and we sat there and talked for a
while eating fresh apples. Then we continued and after a while descended into the riverbed where we
stayed for the most part of the remaining trek to Kagbeni. We arrived there around 12:15 pm and had
lunch at the Red House Lodge.
As the Didi was busy, her 12 year old son prepared lunch for us. We both wanted to make it easy for him
and ordered fried rice with veggies, but the food was not very good. Gyan said it as well as soon as he
tasted his. Don't know whether it was this food or something else, but my stomach was a little queasy the
next 2 days, the only time during the trek.
We left Kagbeni around 1:45 pm. It
was very windy outside. I was ready
for this part of the trek to be over
and put on the afterburners. I put a
scarf over my face and started
walking through the Kali Gandaki. I
kept pace with a group of porters
who were going really fast and I was
in Jomsom by 3:30 pm.
I checked in at the police office and also at the ACAP office. I wanted to stay at the Hotel Majesty but it was
full. So I sat outside on a bench in the shade and waited for Gyan who arrived 45 minutes after me. We
went to the Moonlight Lodge where I got a room. Had a shower and then went to the internetcafe and
checked e-mails. Back at the lodge, Gyan and I got a beer and sat inside the upstairs dining room from
where there were great views of Nilgiri and Tilicho Peak.
Gyan told me about his family. He is originally from the eastern part of Nepal from a small little village.
Several years ago the Maoists took over his village and pretty much forced many of the villagers away.
His parents and his brother are now living in Kathmandu and cannot go back to their village. Quite sad!
Gyan is married and has a little son.

Tomato soup and a tomato cheese pizza for dinner. Finally something different and tasty! There are lots
of Indian (Hindu) pilgrims in this hotel and I think none of them had ever been taught how to use a
doorknob to close doors.... Went to bed around 8:30 pm and listened to my freshly charged i-pod for a
couple of hours until it was finally quiet in the lodge.
Rooftop of our lodge in Chele
Nilgiri towering above Kali Gandaki
Bridge below Chele
Dining Room Red House Lodge Kagbeni