October 10, 2006:
Khumjung (3,790 m) to Tengboche (3,860 m)
Had breakfast, toast and pancake. Said goodbye to Papa, who was going to Thame and then to Gokyo via the Renjo-La. We were trying to meet again in Kathmandu on October 30 for dinner. Bharat and I left around 8:30 am and went from Khumjung, which is at an altitude of about 3,790 meters down to the river to about 3,200 meters. Then we started our climb up to Tengboche, back up to 3,850 meters. I wrote down the altitudes to demonstrate that hiking through the Khumbu toward the Everest Base Camp is not a steady gain of altitude, but on some stretches you lose preciously gained altitude which you have to regain later. Lots of swearing when having to go back up!!
Khumjung and Kwande
Ama Dablam from Khumjung
The climb up to Tengboche took us close to 2 hours and we were in Tengboche shortly after noon. We had lunch at the Gompa Lodge (fried rice with veggies) where we was also stayed overnight. After lunch we visited the Tengboche Monastery. We entered during a ceremony and we sat down in the corner and watched and listened to the monks pray, chant, sing and play music. Back outside the monastery, it was cloudy and dreary. I hiked up a ridge from where I had a great view ot Tengboche and downvalley towards Namche and Khumjung. Unfortunately, I could not see any of the mountains around Tengboche as they were obscured by clouds. Late afternoon, there was another ceremony in the monastery and also outside which we watched.

Tengboche also has an internet cafe, so I was able to check and send out e-mails.
Dinner at the Gompa Lodge was tomato soup and hash browns with fried egg. The Brazilians were there too and also another couple I met previously in the Ama Dablam lodge in Namche. Also, quite a few Germans here. Did not sleep good at all. However, the reason was not the jetlag anymore, but the very noisy lodge. My extremely small bedroom shack was next to the dining room where all the porters and guides were sleeping and there was noise all night long. At least the toilet was inside.  I heard from the Brazilians the next morning that around the corner the lodge had great rooms with attached bathrooms and that they slept great. Had a talk with Bharat the next day and told him no more standard rooms if there are others available. Ok, I am spoiled, but if there is a choice, I certainly want to get the better accomodation. If there isn't a choice, then I don't care.
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