October 10, 2006:
Khumjung (3,790 m) to Tengboche (3,860 m)
Had breakfast, toast and pancake. Said goodbye to Papa, who was going to Thame and then to
Gokyo via the Renjo-La. We were trying to meet again in Kathmandu on October 30 for dinner.
Bharat and I left around 8:30 am and went from Khumjung, which is at an altitude of about 3,790
meters down to the river to about 3,200 meters. Then we started our climb up to Tengboche, back
up to 3,850 meters. I wrote down the altitudes to demonstrate that hiking through the Khumbu
toward the Everest Base Camp is not a steady gain of altitude, but on some stretches you lose
preciously gained altitude which you have to regain later. Lots of swearing when having to go back
up!!
The climb up to Tengboche took us close
to 2 hours and we were in Tengboche
shortly after noon. We had lunch at the
Gompa Lodge (fried rice with veggies)
where we was also stayed overnight.
After lunch we visited the Tengboche
Monastery. We entered during a
ceremony and we sat down in the corner
and watched and listened to the monks
pray, chant, sing and play music. Back
outside the monastery, it was cloudy and
dreary. I hiked up a ridge from where I
had a great view ot Tengboche and
downvalley towards Namche and
Khumjung. Unfortunately, I could not
see any of the mountains around
Tengboche as they were obscured by
clouds. Late afternoon, there was
another ceremony in the monastery and
also outside which we watched.

Tengboche also has an internet cafe, so I
was able to check and send out e-mails.
Dinner at the Gompa Lodge was tomato soup and hash browns with fried egg. The Brazilians were
there too and also another couple I met previously in the Ama Dablam lodge in Namche. Also,
quite a few Germans here. Did not sleep good at all. However, the reason was not the jetlag
anymore, but the very noisy lodge. My extremely small bedroom shack was next to the dining
room where all the porters and guides were sleeping and there was noise all night long. At least the
toilet was inside.  I heard from the Brazilians the next morning that around the corner the lodge
had great rooms with attached bathrooms and that they slept great. Had a talk with Bharat the
next day and told him no more standard rooms if there are others available. Ok, I am spoiled, but
if there is a choice, I certainly want to get the better accomodation. If there isn't a choice, then I
don't care.
Khumjung and
Kwande
Ama Dablam from Khumjung