October 11, 2006:
Tengboche (3,860 m) to Dingboche (4,350 m)
Got up early at 5 am as it was so noisy. My bed in my little shack was so small, I could not even
stretch out when laying in bed, so I was glad to get up (which normally never happens...). The
weather sucked!!!! Low clouds and cold. Couldn't see anything. Had breakfast around 7 am,
pancake, toast and lots of hot tea. Then we left. Next time, I would not stay in Tengboche anymore.
There are lots of nice little lodges minutes further towards Pangboche. After about one and a half
hours, shortly before reaching Pangboche, the sun came out. We walked around a bend of the trail
and there it was: The Lhotse-Nuptse Wall with Everest peeking from behind. We had some tea in
Pangboche with a beautiful view of the top of Everest.
After lunch, Bharat and I kept walking to Orsho where we crossed the Dudh Kosi to go up towards
Dingboche which is located at the entrance to the Chukhung Valley. Another hour or so and we
were in Dingboche around 2 pm. We stayed at the Friendship Lodge. From  looking at this lodge
from the outside and after last night's experience with the Gompa Lodge, I was not too enthused
about staying there, but Bharat assured me that this was a a very nice lodge, and he was right!! The
best lodge I stayed at so far. The Lodge Owner's son lives in Colorado and he even had western
style toilets, but without the flushing mechanisms, the old outhouse type, just inside.
After the tea break, we kept hiking up the valley to Shomare. Here, we crossed 4,000 meters. We had
lunch in Shomare, fried rice and tea. There was an English girl having lunch as well with whom I was
talking for a while. She was cute (I know, after a while in the wilderness all women look cute, but she
really was, and yes, I am an MCP...male chauvinistic pig). Her friend had to stay behind in
Tengboche with AMS and she went on alone with her guide. I am writing this episode because
during my trip I saw many single females hiking with just a guide. On the message boards, you can
always read: I am female, is it safe for me to travel alone in Nepal..... Yes it is perfectly safe to do
Lhotse, 4th highest mountain in the
world at 8,516 meters or 27,939 feet
Mt. Everest peeking
out behind Nupste/
Lhotse wall
Mt. Everest and
from Pangboche
Junction of trail. Right trail goes to
Dingboche, left stays in valley to
After checking in, Bharat and I went up on the
ridge behind the lodge from where we had some
nice views up the Chukhung Valley and also of
Ama Dablam on and off through the clouds.
Unfortunately, it was cloudy again and all the
other great vistas were hidden. We had dinner at
the lodge, I had tomato soup, cheese pizza and
apple pie. There was a big Australian group in
the lodge, 2 German couples, a Dutch couple and
3 English girls (a little older than girls) to whom I
was talking with pretty much all evening long. A
very nice atmosphere in the lodge (I mention that
as the next night was totally different..at least for
me), everybody talking to everybody. It was also
fun to watch the group dynamics in the
Australian group. This group already was in
Gokyo and now on their way to Kala Pattar and
about two thirds of them had the Khumbu
cough. Of course, in the room next to me, 2
coughers. Nevertheless, I slept ok until about 3