October 20, 2006: Gokyo to Dole

Got up at 6:30 am and had breakfast (toast and pancake...can't see it anymore). We had originally planned to walk past the Fourth and Fifth Lake and see how close we would be able to get to the Cho Oyu Basecamp. But now, because of the snow, you could not see the trails anymore. We started to walk towards the Fourth Lake for a while, but we were slipping and sliding and probably wouldn't make it even close to where we wanted to go. On top of that, the clouds rolled in already at 8 in the morning and we did not want to get caught back there in snowfall. And having a sore throat, making the decision to go back and to head down to Dole was an easy one.

So we headed back to Gokyo, packed up and around 9 am started our hike down towards Dole. On the crossing to Dragnag there was no footprint in the snow, telling us that nobody yet had crossed the Ngozumpa Glacier that day. We were wondering how Cho La would look like.

The way down to Machhermo was quite steep and had many man-made steps. After about 2:30 hours we reached Machhermo. We had lunch at the Namgyal Lodge, a very nice place. If I ever were to overnight in Machhermo, that is where I would stay. Had tomato/noodle soup and swiss roestli with egg. Talked to an English couple who were spending the day here to acclimatize. They were going to climb Island Peak and even try Ama Dablam. Gosh...I wish I'd be 20 years younger.

Machhermo

After lunch, we continued our way down towards Dole. Although the going was easy, I was getting tired and worn out from this trip. I think the biggest problem I had was not eating any meat. Living in Texas, I eat lots of beef. And I did not have any beef for 2 weeks now. I am already dreaming of hamburgers and steaks.... instead of, well, you guessed it!! Anyway, after another 2 hours, around 3 pm, we reached Dole. Dole was pretty much booked up and we only got a room in the third lodge we asked, the Himalayan Lodge (the building with the green roof in the center of the picture below).

Dole

After checking into the lodge and getting my room, the dining room story ensued again. It started snowing outside. All day I was not too happy about having left Gokyo a day earlier than planned as I really wanted to go to Cho Oyu Basecamp, but now I am glad we left Gokyo as it must be worse up there. A nice group of Dutch people were in the lodge and also 4 English. It is much warmer in this dining room than in the one in Gokyo as they heat their fireplace with wood and not with yakshit. I had a nice long conversation with one of the English whose group just came from a Rolwaling trip and now went to Gokyo to de-acclimatize. To each his own. Slept pretty good although it is very cold outside, but I was comfy in my down bag.

On a general note, I think going the Namche - Tengboche -  Pangboche - Dingboche - Lobuche - Cho La - Gokyo - Dole route is much easier than going the Namche - Dole - Gokyo - Cho La - Lobuche - Tengboche route. But then, I am an old fart and like doing things the easy way.

For more pictures from that day, click here

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