October 22, 2006:
Namche Bazaar
Now that we were down, the weather was nice again, at least early in the day. I had a big breakfast,
egg toast and oat porridge. I felt really good and had my strength back. I wanted to go back to the
"Norgay" Gompa above Namche which we passed yesterday in the rain. Bharat wanted to visit some
friends, so he asked me whether it was ok for him to stay in Namche and I told him absolutely. The
weather was beautiful and I retraced our steps from the day before. Once above Namche and after a
couple of bends in the trail there were incredible views of Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam and, of
course, Thamserku.
I arrived at the gompa around 9 am. I soaked in the sights and followed with my eyes some of the
trails I had taken. I took lots of pictures. Slowly but surely the clouds kept creeping in again and
after an hour or so, the views deteriorated. Just as I wanted to return to Namche, the clouds parted
one more time and Mt. Everest, which was in the clouds for some time already, reappeared as if to
say goodbye to me. I took the hint and left.
Back in Namche, I went to the Namche Bakery and had a delicious chocolate danish. After lunch, I
went through all the shops. I was looking for a gift for my wife, but I didn't find anything which I
thought she would like. Lots of mountain gear was to be found in the shops, but everything Made in
China and some of the shopkeepers even told me that the quality was not very good. I was also
looking for a decent T-Shirt for me, but didn't find anything I liked. Bought some postcards which I
It was a very quiet evening in the lodge. There were only 5 guests whereas the previous night the
lodge was full. There was a crazy South Korean staying in the lodge who had raced up to Kala
Pattar and back. He was even proud of that. As I said earlier, I read a lot of mountaineering books
and in quite a few of them there is talk of the South Koreans not adhering to some of the rules of
high altitude acclimatising,  hiking and climbing. That guy for sure was a perfect example for that
theory.  I had my usual for dinner, tomato soup and fried rice and a couple of beers. I went to bed
around 8:30 pm and slept really good despite my coughing and runny nose and that big blister in my