September 25, 2008:
Ghami to Dhi via Tsarang
Got up at 7 am. Had an omelet and pancakes for breakfast. There was an older man in the dining room
who apparantly had some business with the lodge's owner. By his appearance one would not think he'd
have any money in his pocket. But after some talk with the owner which looked like a negotiation, he
pulled out a wad of 1,000 rupee notes and counted them into the owner's hands. I was kind of curious
what business they were concluding. Anyway...we left Ghami shortly after 8 am.
We were going to Tsarang, so we had to climb up Tsarang La again, just like we did a few days ago.
Crossed the river and took a few pictures at the Mani Wall. The weather was great. We were up at the pass
at around 9:30 am. Great views of Nilgiri and the Annapurna range.
We then went down towards Tsarang at a leisurely pace. We got there at around 11 am. Went to the Maya
Lodge again for lunch. We asked the Did how long it would take from Tsarang to Dhi. She said about 5
and a half hours. She either did not have a clue or our map was wrong. Yam and I thought it shouldn't
take more than 2 hours or so. Boy were we wrong....
We left the lodge after lunch. Before we went
down to the river, Yam asked a man for
directions. They were talking for a few minutes
and hands were showing in all kinds of
directions. We finally went down to the river,
crossed it and went back up on the other side.
Then we left the main trail to Lo Manthang. We
went towards the east following a small trail.
After a couple of hundred yards, we had to
cross another canyon. We went down steeply
what looked more like a goat trail than a
regular trail and then very steep up on the
other side. It was quite strenous and there
were lots of loose rocks.
Once we were out of the canyon, we followed another trail heading right towards the ridge line. Yam was
getting slower and slower on this trail. He had developed a couple of blisters. First the trail was flat and
then it steeply climbed up to the ridge line. Once on top, we could see down to the valley in which we
assumed was Dhi, but we did not see any sign of a village or any sign of a trail going down.
We continued north for quite a while
along the ridgeline following the trail.
Yam was getting slower and slower and I
was getting worried that we would get
stranded out here for the night as it was
getting late. At times, we could see a
couple of the villages down in the valley,
so we knew at least that we were looking
at the right place, just no trail going
down. Finally, after quite a while, we
reached an intersection from where the
trail from Lo Manthang to Dhi intersected
our trail. There was also a sign there...
The trail down was very steep at
times and went through a steep
canyon. I already dreaded the
thought of us having to go up
here again in a couple of days.
The trail opened up onto a higher
plateau from where there were
beautiful views. As it was late late
afternoon, the colors were
spectacular. Another steep part
down mainly through deep sand
and we were in Dhi. a little after 5
pm. That hike was much longer
than we thought it would be.
We found a basic but very comfortable lodge. This
lodge has facilities used by camping groups and
therefore a couple of big dining rooms, but no guest
rooms. As there were no groups there at the time,
they gave me one of the dining rooms as my own
bedroom. First action was to have a Lhasa beer.
Then we went into the kitchen where Yam chatted
up the Didi and her daughter while preparing
dinner. We got fresh cucumbers which were great.
Yam made fried rice with fresh green veggies for
me. Really good! Went to bed around 8:30 pm.
Mani Wall
outside Ghami
Dhi (finally) and my room (below)