September 27, 2008:
Dhi back to Lo Manthang
Slept good again in my dining room - bedroom. Got up at 7 am and packed my stuff. The Didi was a little
slow this morning and it took a while until breakfast was ready. So I went outside to take a few pictures of
the lodge and then had breakfast together with my lama friends. Around 8:30 am I started the climb up to
the pass while the lamas and Yam still had their tea. I knew that at least the lamas would catch me (but
they wouldn't).
Right after the last house, the path went straight
up, at first through pretty loose sand. Although
strenous, I made good time. After 30 minutes I
was already at the plateau above Dhi. From here
there were great views of Nilgiri and the
Annapurna Range. I was sitting down for a few
minutes, but nobody came, so I continued by
myself. Straight into the small, narrow crack
which went up to the pass. After about 1 hour and
15 minutes, I was up at the ridge. Here I waited for
Yam and the Lamas. To my surprise, Yam showed
up first. The weather was great and the views
were awesome up here, so Yam and I took a few
pictures. Nilgiri, Tilicho, Annapurna Range,
Gangapurna, etc., etc., not a cloud in the sky!
Finally, my Lama friends showed up, we could hear them from far away, they were very cheerful. Once
they joined us, we continued to gradually ascend the ridgeline until we were at about 4,000 m. Up on the
ridge, we had great views also of the other side of the valley where we could see the road between
Tsarang and Lo Manthang and also the big chorten. We took some colorful pictures with the red robes of
the Lamas against the backdrop of the blue sky.
Lama Tenzin continued to walk at my pace while his two compadres sped away. Yam could not continue
our speed and fell back a long way. While walking, Tenzin and I continued our conversation about his
education, Buddhism and other cultural aspects of Mustang. Our path intersected the main path between
Tsarang and Lo Manthang right before we got to the Lo La overlooking Lo Manthang. We finally got back  
to Lo Manthang around 1:30 pm, so about 5 hours after I left Dhi. I said good-bye to Tenzin. He wanted to
continue to his hometown Garphu to see his family and he said he would pick me up the next day for a
Yam and I went back to the Mystique
Himalaya Lodge where I got the same
room I had a few days earlier.
Showered and shaved and had a
change of clothes. Then Yam and I went
to Drolma's to get some boiled water for
my instant noodle lunches. Then I
checked my e-mails at the ACAP office.
My wife had written me that they finally
had power again at our house, 10 days
after the hurricane hit.
Then Yam and I went to visit Suzi who I hadn't seen in several days. She was doing well and continued to
enjoy her stay at the Amchi. We discussed our plans for the next days. I told her that I wanted to leave
Mustang a couple of days earlier than planned and that I was taking Gyan with me. My plan was to go
down to Larjung and attempt to hike up to the Dhaulagiri Icefall and then backtrack to Jomsom where I
would wait for her arrival on October 4. She was fine with that. We also made plans to meet the next
morning and hike together to Namgyal.
Around 6:30 pm we had dinner at he coffee shop. I had tomato soup, fried potatoes and momos (which I
thought were horrible!) After dinner, the owner of Drolma's Restaurant showed up with her daughter. All
of a sudden I found myself in a conversation about me sponsoring the little girl's school. I felt trapped.
While I don't mind sponsoring kids (I already do pay school fees for 2 children in Kathmandu), I disliked
the way it was presented to me and I don't like being put on a spot. I said I would think about it. From what
I heard later, they are apparantly asking almost every foreigner about this. Gyan and Darbir came as well.
They were both worn out from working in the fields all day making some money. While Yam and I were
gone, there was nothing for them to do, so they worked as field hands. They both said it was hard work.
Went back to my room and listened to my i-pod for a while which I was able to charge again earlier. I had a
tough time falling asleep. In the middle of the night I woke up from strange noises. Well...after some
searching, I discovered it was either a mouse or rat walking on the canvas roof of my room. Finally, after
about 30 minutes of following the footsteps of that thing across my roof, it was quiet again.
Lodge in Dhi
Tilicho Peak and Nilgiri
Old and new transportation